How to: Fix TSB 05-24-6: Convertible Top Concerns This TSB affects 2005-2006 Ford Mustang Convertibles, and symptoms are: Sticking convertible top. Top wont go up, down Top goes up/down and is very lopsided or uneven. The TSB has to do with what are called the 'balance links' in the system, they're two bars (one on each side) which help extend the top as it goes up and down. The end links go through a fair amount of stress each time, yet are made of simple steel tubing cut, crimped, bent and drilled to shape. For the amount of wear and tear they go through, they don't appear to be strong enough, and the link ends (in the convertible top, not mounted to the hinge bracket are what fail over time. Costs quoted for replacement are quite high as well. The convertible top unit is over $2400 alone. Installed, $4500. The side rail assembly (all the 'levers,bars,hinges') goes for $750 per side. Meanwhile, the part itself is probably hardly more than $20 bucks. Why Ford does not offer a part kit to fix it is beyond me. A new (or redesigned) linkage with a bolt kit would be simple, but I guess they want to make the big bucks on the new top. Hmmm... Anyhow, on to the fix. All of these procedures are done with the top UP (latched and in place). There is only one point where you'll need to release the latches and put the top partially down. Tools needed: Torx bits 13mm wrench Drill with assorted bits Welder - or a 6 pack of your friends favorite beer. pop rivet gun Parts needed: Dorman Help kit 38490 Door Hing Pin and Bushing Kit (Autozone) Pop Rivets (5/32 x 1/2 long aluminum) 3/8 nylon washers (home depot) 3/8 cut steel washers (home depot) Step 1: Under the back window, the fabric covering is held in by a torx screw (small one), remove them on each side. Then you will pull the triangular piece out until it stops. At this point, theres a plastic tab held in with two pop rivets, drill those out. This will release enough of the soft interior covering to get access to the parts in question. At this point, you're also going to remove the plastic trim pieces which cover the assembly and bracketing. All of them snap out/in using clips, so no tools required. You'll be taking off the top piece, and the cover where the speaker is - and the speaker will stay in place. The top piece is pulled up to release the clips, the side panel has a push-tab in the back to keep it in place. Remove that then pull the piece forward towards the front of the vehicle. Step 2: It is a smart move at this point to reinforce BOTH linkages. It's a crappy design, and you might as well do it. If only one side is broken (as mine was) it gives you a reference point for the other side, one quick note though, when one side breaks, the load goes all to the other side, and this can bend some of the bracketing. Obviously that's not good. You can use the broken side to get an idea on how far to straighten the bracket if it is bent. Right now we are going to remove the broken linkage, and the other side. Using a 5/16 drill bit, drill out the rivet which holds the linkage in place. It is steel, not aluminum, but it is dimpled so getting the bit started is easy. Using a small bit to get through first, followed by the 5/16 might be easier. Your mileage may vary. Once the rivet is drilled out, using a socket/large torx bit and the 13mm wrench to remove the bolt holding the bottom in place. There is a small strap with a clip on the bolt end to tie down part of the inner fabric, obviously remove that first. Once the bolt is removed, the linkage falls free. Make sure to keep the washers in order, don't lose them. Step 3: Repair your end links. This will vary depending on the level of damage. On my vehicle, one end was broken out (one side of the loop broke and the rest bent free), the other rod was bent, but not broken. I welded a 3/8" washer on the good endlink after straightening it out for reinforcement. Did the same for the other side after getting it back in shape as well. Others have taken some flat bar stock and drilled a new hole to reinforce it, the point is to fix it however you need to, and sand the faces down smooth and flat - a mirror surface isn't necessary, just make it smooth. Step 4: MOdifying the Dorman 38490 kit. The kit comes with 4 posts, and 4 brass bushings, but we're only interested in the posts and nuts (two of them specifically). Believe it or not, there is only a small level of modification to the kit needed. Using a small dremel, grind off some of the notching teeth. The fit is a bit too tight without doing this, and you could strip out the nuts drawing them through. So - just grind the teeth down a bit. Install the top end of the rod first since the bottom is slotted allowing some play. install it using the nut facing the -outside- of the vehicle and tighten until the arm is tight and snug without binding. The arm should be able to rotate, but not move side to side. Then attach the bottom of link. Repeat for the other side and make sure the top is closed and latched during this process. Step 5: Check for operation of the top. Right now the soft fabric pieces may be in the way, operate the top slowly, checking to make sure nothing gets stuck and tucking the fabric out of the way as necessary. If everything was done properly, it should be working fine. The first operation might be a little sticky (new washers and bolts and such) but it should operate and retract then extend correctly. Step 5: Reinstall the plastic rivetted tab. For this, you will need to put the top in the middle position since the repaired linkage will now be in the way, preventing you from rivetting the tab back. Put the top back until you have enough clearance to get to it. Drill out the rest of the rivet (if you didn't do it the first time). Then pop-rivet the tab into place. Put the top all the way in place and latched, then re-attach the triangluar piece back into place with the torx bit. Vaccuum up the metal pieces from drilling and you're done. Total cost: Dorman kit: $21.00 Steel Washers: $1.00 Nylon washers: $1.00 Total time: About 1 hour.